Sunday, May 28, 2006

Nikko Roadtrip

This weekend the traveling extravaganza continued with a visit to Nikko, one of Japan's major tourist attractions. The site has a long history of religious significance dating back to the 8th century, when it was a famous training center for Buddhist monks. After declining into obscurity for many years, it was chosen to become the location of the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the shogun who unified Japan and whose successors controlled the country for about 250 years. The shrine was built in the 1630s by Ieyasu's grandson and is the most splendid of all the shrines in Japan - splendid to the point of gaudiness, some say. All the same, it was intended to inspire awe for the wealth and power of the Tokugawa family, and it sure does the trick.

The weekend was a rainy one, which gave the whole experience an atmosphere of mystery and meaning. Six of us (Rosalind, Steph, Grace, Johanna, Simone, and I) set out from Niigata on Saturday morning and arrived in the town of Nikko after about four hours and some very windy mountain roads (when they post signs counting the number of switchbacks, that's a bad sign). That afternoon largely consisted of shopping, eating, and generally goofiness, in addition to a trip to Yashio-no-yu Onsen (I got a massage - yay!). Sunday we wandered the Nikko shrine complex, which included Shoyoen (a Japanese strolling garden), the Tokugawa Treasure House, Sanbutsudo (Three Buddha Hall), Rinnoji Temple, the Toshogu Shrine (including the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu and the "hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil" monkey trio), Yakushido (it has a dragon painted on its ceiling that "roars" if you use the accoustics properly), Futarasan Shrine (built to honor mountain deities), and Taiyuinbo (where Ieyasu's grandson is enshrined). The place was fraught with history and complexity, some of which I cover in the comments to my full photo set. On the way back, we hit Kegon Falls and stopped shortly to gaze at Lake Chuzenji (where we met a very friendly fisherman). Here are some of the visual highlights (though we couldn't take pics of some of the best stuff):


Room #3, Daiyagawa Youth Hostel
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.



Shin-kyo Bridge, Nikko
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Pathway, Shoyoen, Nikko
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Yomei-mon, Toshogu Shrine, Nikko
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil, See No Evil
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Kristi, Kegon Falls
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Fishermen, Lake Chuzenji
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Click here to see my full photo set from Nikko.

Thursday, May 25, 2006

ALTs go to the movies...

Yeah, so after a trip to the gym and some Pizza Hut indulgence, eight of us met up at the Tsubame Warner MyCal theatre to see The Da Vinci Code last night. I enjoyed the book, so I was interested to see the film version. I thought Tautou was excellent (and beautiful), and Ian McKellen was quite entertaining. It was nice to get out and see a movie.

Anyway, we totally made fools of ourselves getting print club pictures beforehand. Here are a few for your viewing pleasure:


Niigata Surprise!
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Bubbly Fun
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


A Motley Crew
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Good times. Work and life have been incredibly busy lately. I finally perfected my "asking the way" lesson today - the 3rd year students (9th graders) really loved it. Only thing was, the new version was incredibly high-energy for the team teachers. I totally wanted to pass out after three straight classes. But then I had two more lessons to prep and fax for Monday, a composition workbook to write, and a million other miscellaneous things to deal with... Funny, I feel suddenly comfortable here, with the people and the way of life. And I have less than two months left.

Anyway, I think I'm going to have some tea and try to do something productive. I hope I get some down time tomorrow. Saturday and Sunday will be spent touring Nikko with the ALT crew, so small girls must get their rest.

Tuesday, May 23, 2006

Omi Shrine Festival

So, I promised that I'd post pics from the snippet of the Omi Shrine Festival that I caught this weekend, after my triumphant return from Okinawa. There were apparently a lot of costumes and a parade, but I just saw the ceremony at the end, where they dismantled the portable shrines and had a short bout of flute/drum music and dancing. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.


Omi Shrine Festival, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Omi Shrine Festival, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Omi Shrine Festival, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Omi Shrine Festival, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Lanterns, Omi Shrine Festival, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Monday, May 22, 2006

Okinawa in Review

So, as I mentioned before, Star and I ventured out to Japan's southernmost set of islands this weekend - and wow, what an amazing time we had. Sight-seeing, relaxing, shopping, perfect weather, quality time with a good friend - how much better could it get? Friday afternoon was spent shopping on Kokusai-dori (International Street) and trying to locate Coco Shanti, the charmingly (and affordably) hippie place we called home for the weekend. We got to know this street quite well during our stay and probably walked its length 20-30 times before our departure.


Kristi, Kokusai-dori, Okinawa
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

On Saturday morning, we woke up bright and early to pick up our rental car from the airport and our real adventure began. We started off by heading to the southern tip of the island to check out some of the war memorials. Okinawa suffered heavy losses during the last days of WWII, both military and civilian, with many people committing suicide on its coastal cliffs. We visited Himeyuri-no-To (the Cave of Virgins), a memorial for a group of about 200 women and children who lost their lives, and the Okinawa Peace Memorial Park, which contains the Cornerstone of Peace. The latter monument records the names of all who died in the Battle of Okinawa (Japanese commanders, civilians, and foreign military personnel alike), arranged in striking waves of black stone tablets.


Himeyuri-no-To, Okinawa
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Cornerstone of Peace, Okinawa
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Then we moved on to Shuri Castle, the former seat from which Ryukyu kings ruled before Okinawa was subjected to mainland rule. The architectural style was much different than that of the mainland, with the Chinese influence really shining through. The most famous gate, Shurei-no-mon, appears on the Japanese 2,000 yen note.


Star & Kristi, Shuri Castle, Okinawa
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Shurei-no-mon, Okinawa
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

With two major sites under our belt, Star and I stopped at an A&W restaurant for lunch - it was a drive-in, so you could actually pull in, order, and eat in your car (though we opted for the air-conditioned interior). Hamburgers and root beer were in order. After that, it was off to the Motobu Peninsula, where I visited the Churaumi Aquarium while Star napped on Emerald Beach. I thought the aquarium was really fascinating - and huge! I hadn't been to one in years, so it was quite a treat.


Whale Shark, Churaumi Aquarium, Okinawa
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Emerald Beach, Okinawa
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Our final mission of the day was to drive along the Okinawan coast to the northernmost tip of the island, Cape Hedo. The scenery was stunning (Star has all the pictures though, since I was driving), and it was well worth the time when we got to the rocky cliffs and saw the bird statue we'd been looking for.


Statue, Cape Hedo, Okinawa
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Two hours later, we were back in Naha and back on foot. We continued to sample Okinawan cuisine, which Star became quite fond of during her homestay seven years ago, and which I actually enjoyed as well. During our weekend, we had Okinawan soba (different from mainland soba), yakisoba, rafti (pork stew), zenzai (shaved ice with sweet bean), and chinsuko (yummy cookie). We also sampled Orion Beer, the local Okinawan brew. Anyway, we pretty much passed out after dinner.

Sunday morning we made time to shop along Kokusai-dori and Heiwa-dori, collecting the necessary omiyage to be able to return to our respective workplaces without losing face. Our mascot for the trip requires an introduction though - meet Goya Man (or Super Goya, as Star and I like to call him):


Goya Man
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

The goya is a bitter melon that is very common in Okinawa and Okinawan dishes. Rosalind and I actually cooked goya champuru in our cooking class. Anyway, the goya memorabilia gave us no end of laughs along the way.

Sunday afternoon marked our returns to Niigata and Tokyo respectively, and I came home to find the Kamo Spring Festival winding down (which was curiously similar to coming home and finding my roommates throwing a party). I managed to see some fun stuff there, but I think it's best left to another post. This one has come to an end. :) Click here if you want to see the full set of photos from our fabulous weekend in the sun.

Sunday, May 21, 2006

There and back again

Okinawa was incredible. So much fun. So many adventures. Details to come.

By the way, did you know that Crystal Geyser is the water of America?


Crystal Geyser, Water of America
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Sunday, May 14, 2006

The mundane, the wonderful

I took a drive out to Sanjo today, to go to the gym and buy some groceries. But along the way, I took the time to stop and photograph some of the sights that grace my regular errand-running. There are the things that aren't special enough to take pictures of, but I have a feeling they'll be the ones I miss most once my time here has come to an end. I love the landscapes right now - all of the rice fields are flooded for spring, and it makes Niigata seem like a surreal sort of floating world. Here are a few of the snippets from my day:


Rice Field Reflections, Sanjo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Roadside Shrine, Sanjo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Shrine in the Rice Fields, Sanjo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

That little shrine in the last shot really charmed me for some reason. Perhaps because it seemed so elegant in the water, and it was just sitting there, amidst a sea of houses and agriculture... Anyway, yay for Niigata.

I should do some writing before this weekend is over. Hope everyone is doing well. And Happy Mother's Day!

Monday, May 08, 2006

Back to Niigata (via Tokyo)

I woke up at about 4:45 am this morning. Why? Because the sun came up at 4:43 am, which I consider terribly early. Still, it'll continue to inch earlier yet before hitting about a 4:25 am sunrise in mid-June. I really need to find a way to darken my room a little more in the mornings. Sitting at my desk today, it somehow seems like I never left - it's amazing how consistent the routine of the Japanese school system can be. It's comforting, actually.

I just returned from hanging out in Tokyo with Star, one of my friends from UW and a fellow Japanese major. She's living out there doing science research and kindly let me stay with her for a while. We mainly took it easy, treating ourselves to massages, shopping in Shibuya, and a rather leisurely schedule. Grace joined the fun on Saturday. I took a break from picture taking during this trip, but still managed to get one of the more amusing shots of my collection while walking through Shinjuku. A tanuki (raccoon) in a pig's mask:


Incognito Tanuki and Kristi, Shinjuku, Tokyo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

The owner in back adds a lot to the picture.

Sufficeth to say that I had fun. I always enjoy Tokyo - hopefully I'll make it down there a few more times before my contract is up in July. Things are starting to fly by faster and faster. This weekend, I'm thinking of heading out to Takaoka to see their daibutsu and do the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, two weeks from now is Okinawa with Star, four weeks out is Hiroshima/Kansai with Maria, followed by Tokyo five weeks out... and then I'll have about a month left in Japan, so I imagine I'll be desperately trying to pack and squeeze things in.

Anyway, I think that's enough for now. More adventures soon!

Monday, April 24, 2006

More sakura love and urban fun

So, it's been a little while. Things have been kinda crazy and kinda random, but then again, that's often the way life is out here in Japan. On Thursday, Aaron and I caught the sakura fever and decided to make our way up to Osakiyama Park near Sanjo to take a look at the blossoms there. The journey itself was a bit of an adventure, but the blossoms were definitely beautiful. I also loved the view from the top of the mountain - it gave a rare glimpse of Sanjo and Tsubame, with Mt. Yahiko looming in the distance.


Sanjo and Mt. Yahiko, Osakiyama Park
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Kristi, Osakiyama Park
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Afterwards, Aaron and I decided to go to Pizza Hut for dinner. That in itself was fairly unusual, given that it was only our third time visiting the place since arriving in Japan. But lo and behold, who should we run into but Sarah and Nuria? Anyway, the four of us enjoyed our gaijin fare and then topped it off by visiting the brand new Baskin Robbins in Tsubame. (It's telling when these kinds of places are exciting, isn't it?)

Anyway, my very blustery Friday was spent down in Nagaoka at a Board of Education meeting, and Saturday I hung out with some old friends in an attempt to escape Niigata for a while. Again, yay for onsen. Saturday night I met up with Melissa, Kate, Kayvohn, and Errol for a little fun out in Niigata City. We went to a place called Hallelujah, which ended up being a lot of fun.


Kristi, Kate, & Melissa, Hallelujah
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

And now it's Monday and the day has been pure insanity. I just taught five classes in a row, something that has never happened before. And I also didn't know about any of them beforehand, so talk about starting things off with a bang. :) I'm happy though, my least favorite JTE left and has been replaced by one who seems fairly nice and very capable. Looks like tomorrow is going to be crazy too - I kinda feel like I should go straight home and just start sleeping now. ;)

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Undeniably Spring

You know, it just isn't springtime in Japan until the cherry blossoms have graced you with their presence. The sakura is Japan's unofficial national flower, and it's amazing how culturally important it is. Actually, when the word "flower" is used in traditional Japanese poetry, it generally refers to the sakura. Even now, people closely follow the sakura forecast for an estimation of when the flowers will come to their town. And once they appear, it's time for hanami, a tradition of eating and drinking with family and friends under the blossoming trees that has been around since the 700s. I swear, it's all any of my Japanese friends have talked about for the last couple of months.

So, this past weekend, the sakura really started coming out in Niigata (pretty late, really), and as expected, they're beautiful. I took a walk around Kamo yesterday to take in the springtime beauty and snap a few pictures. Cherry blossoms are fickle things; the slightest bit of wind or bad weather can send them away as quickly as they came. That's part of the Japanese fascination with them, of course - they symbolize the fleeting nature of life. Anyway, I'm going to be quiet now and show you the pictures.


Spring Sunset, Kamo River
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Cherry Blossoms, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

I really like that last one, but it is better appreciated at a larger size. Been shooting in RAW lately, and it makes me wonder how I ever coped without it.

Anyway, it's been an extremely busy day at school. I taught four classes in a row this morning, something that's only happened once before. And I'm basically designing a new English curriculum to be published in book form, which is a huge task. Better get back to that. ;)

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Why Japan doesn't have Daylight Savings Time


Sunrise, Mt. Fuji
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

So, this post is a bit late, but did you know that Japan doesn't observe daylight savings time? I was baffled when I discovered this but never really received a satisfactory explanation for its absence, other than the fact that it "used to have it". So, I decided to do a little digging to figure this thing out.

Today, more than 70 countries have adopted daylight savings time. Of the 29 OECD countries, only Japan, South Korea and Iceland don't observe the convention. In Japan, daylight savings time (sanma taimu) was introduced after World War II by the U.S. Occupation authorities imposed DST on May 1, 1948, as a means to combat coal and power shortages, explaining the regime was being installed to "promote the health and welfare of the Japanese people, conserve valuable resources and to cultivate an appreciation of time among the Japanese." (The Japan Times, Aug. 10, 2005)

Only three years later, in October 1951, the Diet passed a bill to dump the unpopular system, less than a month after the San Francisco Peace Treaty was signed. It was abolished in April 1952, as soon as the GHQ packed up and departed from Tokyo's Yurakucho district. A government poll in 1951 showed 53 percent of the Japanese wanted to scrap daylight savings time, as opposed to 30 percent who wanted to keep it. There seem to be several different reasons for this opposition.
  • Some say that lack of prior debate and the execution of daylight savings time just three days after the bill was passed generated deep hatred of the concept. Daylight savings time suddenly became equated with the humiliation of defeat; it was seen as something the GHQ forced on the people, and this continues to hinder the movement. Bad memories of the Occupation still haunt Web sites critical of daylight savings, with messages like "Daylight-saving time is fascist!" "It is a pain to change the clock, and it's hard on people's biological clocks." "People will lose sleep, and be made to work more overtime."
  • This fear of over-work seems to be another explanation. Several business sectors have expressed concerns that the measure could result in workers voluntarily working longer hours. The truth of it seems to be suspect. One article in The Japan Times claims that many people opted to work after their regular workday had ended during the Occupation. But another article cites that the Japan Council of Metalworkers' Unions found that labor hours fell during daylight savings time.
  • According to Japan scholar John Dower, daylight savings time was opposed on the grounds that it simply extended the difficulty of "daily" life. Dower describes a condition of exhaustion and despondency in Japan immediately after the war, causing people to prefer an earlier darkening so they could escape into sleep or drink. In today's prosperous and seemingly happier Japan though, it seems like it shouldn't be very relevant.
  • Another reason seems to be that the Ministry of Education was concerned that lighter evenings would entice school children from their homework. (Um...)
Anyway, there are some very sound reasons to introduce daylight savings to Japan, although it's hard to "prove" them. Experts say the change would increase the amount of usable sunlight per day, cutting crude oil use by 930,000 kiloliters and greenhouse gas emissions by 40 tons. The Japan Productivity Center further estimates that 100,000 new jobs and 970 billion yen in additional economic benefits would be generated by shopping and leisure as people take advantage of the brighter evenings.

It seems like change is in the wind though. On April 22, 2005, a group of lawmakers on Friday approved a package of draft bills to introduce daylight-saving time nationwide, with an eye to submitting them to the Diet next month, members of the group said.The change would be implemented in 2007 and would be reviewed three years later, the draft bills say. Some municipalities, such as the Sapporo Municipal Government, have experimented with daylight-saving time. In June 2005, hundreds of companies and government offices launched a 42-day daylight-saving experiment in Hokkaido as part of a campaign to turn it into a national practice. Some 15,000 employees came to and left work an hour earlier than usual. Doesn't seem like anything has really happened since, at least that I could find.

Kinda random, but somehow, it seems very fitting for Japan.

Thursday, April 13, 2006

Guess I wasn't quite done yet

So, I was accepted to a seventh graduate school today - UC San Diego just came through with an offer of admission and a full four-year funding package. Wow. It's probably best that I didn't know about this last week. At least I finally got denied by the University of Michigan (where I was also initially waitlisted) - that keeps things a little more sane. :)

Final Final Grad School Results

Admitted to:
UC Berkeley
Princeton
Cornell
UC San Diego
UCLA
University of Wisconsin
University of Washington

Denied at:
Harvard
University of Chicago
Columbia
University of Michigan

Wednesday, April 12, 2006

Koinobori and the coming of spring

Spring is cementing its hold on Niigata, slowly but surely. To celebrate, the city of Kamo holds an annual festival. Somehow, I'd been so wrapped up in my thoughts that I almost failed to notice it (it's quite impressive when you consider how close I live to Kamo River and the Omi Shrine, two of the city's cultural hot spots).

Koinobori are carp-shaped flags that play a role in many Japanese festivals; they are traditionally flown to celebrate Children's Day in May. Traditionally, the Japanese associate carp with boys because of the strength of carp that swim upstream. In Kamo, huge streamers ranging in size from one to over three meters are suspended over the river and allowed to flutter in the wind. It makes for a rather magical atmosphere - and a good place for a person to destress after a long day at work.


Koinobori, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Koinobori, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Koinobori, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Koinobori, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Old Downtown, Kamo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

I am quite fond of this place.

Saturday, April 08, 2006

The Decision

I am happy to announce that this fall I will be beginning a Ph.D. in Political Science at the University of California, Berkeley. The official acceptance forms have been sent in and I'm currently in the midst of sending decline notices and thank you emails to the dozens of people who have helped me during this deliberation process. Started looking at fall courses today and felt a glimmer of excitement here and there. Maybe it will all be all right.

In other news, today was a very rainy and blustery day in Kamo. I've been holed up inside my apartment - things just don't look inviting out there. Been watching a lot of TV; I definitely get my money's worth out of my cable subscription. But they recently deprived me of my daily 1-hour Simpsons fix, which I find really distressing. That 6-7 pm time slot got me through a lot of rough times out here. The Saturday viewing was a little lacking, so I started watching the first season of Lost on DVD, something I picked up on my last jaunt through the U.S. *Highly* addictive. I look forward to spending many hours engrossed in it.

Oh, and Star and I decided to go to Okinawa for a weekend in May. Should be an islandy good time. Yay for the Niigata Airport.

Monday, April 03, 2006

U.S.A. Whirlwind Trip Report

So, I made it back to Japan and am actually writing this from my desk at work. Of course, there's incredibly little to do, given that the kidlings are all on vacation. But I am fairly happy just to be sitting still and on my way to absolutely nowhere in the near future.

The last week was really too crazy to relay in detail, but I'll try to hit a few of the high points. It all started on Thursday night, when I took the shinkansen to Ueno station and was met by Star, who had ever so kindly pre-located a yakiniku restaurant for us to feast at (I'm so predictable). Our friend Richard was in town, taking a break from his busy grad student life in Syracuse, so we hung out a little that night and Friday morning. Star and I saw a few of the first cherry blossoms in Ueno Park and I would have gone back to see more, had time not run out on me.


Richard and Kristi, Tokyo
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

After that, it was off to the U.S.! I didn't sleep much on the plane. I find the games and movies on the Northwest Airbus flight to be quite addictive, btw - highly recommended. Anyway, I took care of some business in Seattle and got to hang out with my brother and Adam for a little while, which was nice. Oh, and I got a much-needed haircut.


Chris, sporting his DMZ souvenir
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

After that, it was off on the whirlwind graduate school tour. After two planes, two trains, and a lot of walking, I arrived at Princeton University and embarked on a series of appointments bookended by a lunch and a dinner with various graduate students and faculty. I really liked a few of the people I met, particularly Jennifer Widner and Lynn White. The program has hired something like 16 new faculty in the last year and a half and about 60% of the faculty has been there for 3 years or less, indicating some sweeping changes and perhaps an exciting department to come. But things could also go the other way. I'm going to refrain from saying anything that could be considered "sensitive information", so you should ask me if you have specific questions. The funding was definitely a big selling point for Princeton, one that came up again and again - not too surprising, given that Princeton is the second most well-endowed university in the U.S., but still. It's a strong, mainstream program with a lot of resources to offer. But it's not very strong in terms of Japan, and at the end of the day, is lower ranked than Berkeley. To be honest, I liked it and have a feeling I would be well-served by going there. But it was my least favorite of the three.

After my dinner, I went up to New York City and spent the night in Manhattan with a very nice Princeton grad student couple who were amazingly hospitable and accomodating - and I was amazed at the PoliSci student's job prospects! Five offers and pretty great salary choices, all of which made me feel a lot better about academia as a career choice Since I had never been to New York, Gabriel was nice enough to walk me through Times Square and a bit of that area.


Kristi, Times Square, New York
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Tuesday morning I caught a bus to La Guardia Airport, where I boarded a fairly small plane to Ithaca. You know, the kind of plane where they strategically seat passengers in order to balance weight. A short while later, I was at Cornell University, which was experiencing uncharacteristically warm weather and was truly beautiful. The campus is huge and really majestic in its scenery - waterfalls, gorges, hills... I again embarked on the marathon lunch-appointment-dinner schedule, but came away with a much better feeling than I did at Princeton. The Cornell Government Department seems really congenial and welcoming - and a place where I would feel very comfortable. I really liked Rob Wiener and Valerie Bunce in particular. I wish I could've met with Peter Katzenstein, whom every since student *raved* about, but alas he was out on travel. I also went bowling with a bunch of the grad students, which was good fun. I really liked the feel of the place and found Ithaca to be charming and quite livable. I wish it were ranked a tad higher - to be honest, I feel a pull towards it, even more so than to Berkeley. I also liked that the cohorts are so small - 12-15ish versus Berkeley's 20-something.

After a brief stopover in Detroit (which has a very nice airport, btw), I found myself in San Francisco and then in Berkeley shortly thereafter. The West Coast really does feel a lot more comfortable to me, I've gotta say, though this has its good and bad points. Anyway, Berkeley was pretty much everthing I thought it would be. Unfortunately, my visit occurred during their Spring Break, so I met with the department chair and T.J. Pempel (who was also everything I thought he would be) before heading back out to San Francisco to meet my best friend Camden. I was pretty destroyed by this time, so we stayed in, ordered pizza, and caught up on stuff. Anyway, Thursday I met with four different grad students who were all very nice and quite sharp. One girl there has interests remarkably similar to my own - something that I hadn't encountered at any of the other schools. Berkeley felt good. It felt big. Like UW on steroids, kinda. In general, I like big, but wish I could've come while classes were in session... I get the impression that I have an *amazing* funding package in the Berkeley context, which makes me very happy. And the area seemed just as exciting as I'd heard. So... yeah, probably the most logical choice, given my professed goals.

So yeah, things are still up in the air. I'll probably choose Berkeley, but was surprisingly drawn to Cornell. I'll let you know when I've made the final decision.

Friday, March 31, 2006

Alive!

Sufficeth to say, I made it. After spending varying amounts of time in Seattle, Altlanta, Newark, Princeton, New York City, Ithaca, Detroit, San Francisco, and Berkeley, I've been safely deposited in Puyallup, where I will remain in a state of near-hiberation until Saturday morning. More soon, hopefully.

Thursday, March 23, 2006

Where are the brakes on this thing?

The past few days have been really productive, albeit not as productive as they needed to be (are they ever?). Took care of a bunch of things I've been waiting months (and even years) to do, and wow, it felt good. Now I'm leaving for Tokyo in about 8 hours, and I'm almost packed. I think I need to sneak home to finish the job. Or actually, maybe I should just ask - they'd probably send me home early.

I would like to take this opportunity to say that my Vice Principal at Kamo Jr. High is the most awesome person ever. One of these days I'm going to trap him into taking a picture with me - but alas, today is not that day. Anyway, he has semi-long (long for a Japanese man) permed hair and is the funniest guy I've met here in Japan. He doesn't speak much English at all, but he's always busting out the random nouns and phrases - and more than that, he actually *talks* to me on a regular basis (other ALTs realize what a big deal this is). Anyway, yesterday he sent me home an hour and a half early - told me to go out and have fun, drive up to Niigata City and go window-shopping or something. Of course, I just went home and got the oil changed on my car, but it was a really nice thought. ;)

This week is going to be *insane*, btw. I have to say, I'm not entirely looking forward to it. Check out my schedule for my Princeton visit (kind of for my reference):

On arrival - Monica Selinger
Noon - Lunch with graduate students
2:30 p.m. Professor Christina Davis (Intl political economy; Japan)
3:00 p.m. Professor Charles Beitz (Political theory)
3:30 p.m. Professor Gilbert Rozman (Sociology; Northeast Asia)
4:00 p.m. Professor Jennifer Widner (Development; Africa; democratic institutions)
5:30 p.m. Professor Lynn White (Political development; China; Thailand; Philippines)
6:00 p.m. Dinner with Professors White and Davis, and Daniel Kliman

After this I take the train to New York and stay with a grad student couple in Manhattan before flying out of LaGuardia the next morning. And then at Cornell:

12:30 p.m. Arrival
1:30 p.m. Lunch with Geoff Wallace and Steve Nelson
2:30 p.m. Professor Nic van de Walle (Comparative; political economy; Africa)
3:00 p.m. Professor Sherry Martin (Comparative; Japan; electoral politics; gender)
3:30 p.m. Jennifer Erickson
4:00 p.m. Professor Valerie Bunce (Comparative/IR; Eastern Europe/former USSR)
4:30 p.m. Professor Richard Bensel (American: political development/economy)
5:00 p.m. Professor Rob Wiener (Comparative; electoral politics; Japan)
6:30 p.m. Dinner with Katharine Boyle
???? p.m. Bowling with graduate students

And then I pass out and fly straight to San Francisco the next day. Wow. Berkeley is on Spring Break, so I don't get the whirlwind wine and dine (at least I haven't heard about it yet). But I'm glad - I think I'll welcome a chance to relax and talk at leisure with just a few people. I'm meeting T.J. Pempel, one of my academic idols, on Wednesday and then lunching with some grad students on Thursday.

Anyway, wish me luck - I hope I survive!

Sunday, March 19, 2006

Normalcy

This weekend was really nice. You know why? Because it was like a weekend I might have had at home. Friday night, I went out to see Narnia with Aaron, which was very enjoyable. True to the book, without being tedious. Saturday morning, I slept in before meeting Aaron again to take a look at Honai Park. Honai is a tiny town halfway between Kamo and Sanjo; I've driven past it a hundred times but never ventured out of the car before. The park itself was definitely not in its best shape. A long winter and quickly melting snow had turned many of the paths into faint mud trails - Aaron and I went on a few wild goose chases, but it was all in the spirit of a good adventure. The park boasted a very nice greenhouse, which gave me an opportunity to get a little more creative with my pictures. Here's a favorite:


In the Greenhouse, Honai Park
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Saturday night, I went out with a couple of Japanese friends for a yakiniku feast and drinks in Kamo. Wow, it was so much fun! We ate *so* much. And I got to practice my Japanese for a few hours, which was nice. That's the only thing about being an English teacher out here - you don't always get to work on the language skills. Anyway, I opted out of the karaoke in favor of an early night (trying to rest up for my hectic week to come).

Today was an even lazier day. I watched a couple of the movies that Adam lent me: Innocence and Demonlover. Loved both of them, albeit in very different ways. And now ... now I'm trying to get myself mentally prepared for another week at work. It's a light one though - Tuesday is a national holiday and Friday I'm off to the U.S.! よし、行くぞ!

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

Final grad school results

Well, I'm done with the application process that has been my life for the last six months - the last two letters came in the mail yesterday. And, for posterity, here are the results in full:

Admitted to:
UC Berkeley
Princeton
Cornell
UCLA
University of Wisconsin
University of Washington

Waitlisted at:
UC San Diego
University of Michigan

Denied at:
Harvard
University of Chicago
Columbia

I have plans to visit Princeton, Cornell, and UC Berkeley in less than a week. Here's my horrible horrible itinerary:

Friday, 3/24: Tokyo --> Seattle, WA
Sunday, 3/26: Seattle, WA --> Newark, NJ (Monday, 3/27)
Tuesday, 3/28: New York City, NY --> Ithaca, NY
Wednesday, 3/29: Ithaca, NY --> San Francisco, CA
Thursday, 3/30: San Francisco, CA --> Seattle, WA
Saturday, 4/1: Seattle, WA --> Tokyo (Sunday, 4/2)

Doesn't it make you tired just looking at it? I'll need a vacation just to recover from my "vacation". :)

Monday, March 13, 2006

Winter Strikes Back

I feel the need to share that it has been snowing profusely for the last two days. It was extremely spring-like three days ago. There was basically no snow anywhere. Windows were rolled down, heaters were turned off. And now it's basically winter again. Case in point, I left my apartment this morning to find this:


Kristi's Car, March 14th
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Maybe you can't really tell, but there's about a foot of snow on the roof of my car. And I drove the thing yesterday. It's still coming down, too. It does make for awfully pretty scenery though:


Kamo, from Wakamiya Jr. High
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

I guess I was expecting this - the weather had been unseasonably warm as of late, so this is really more "normal". Still, I was hoping that winter would end a month early, since it got here a month early. Ah well, it's good to know that the worst of it is over.

The teachers are feeding me chocolate again today. But not White Day chocolate, thank goodness. March 14 is White Day here, a sort of Valentine's Day Part II celebrated in Japan, Korea, and Taiwan. On Valentine's Day, women give gifts to men; on White Day, men who received chocolate on Valentine's Day return the favor and give gifts to women. According to one story, the holiday began in 1965, when a marshmallow maker started telling men they should pay back the women who gave them chocolate and other gifts with marshmallows. Originally it was called Marshmallow Day, and later it was changed to White Day. Later, chocolate companies began marketing white chocolate, too. An interesting concept, even if it was manufactured.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

South Korea

In an effort not to think too much about impending decisions, it's time to tell you about my latest trip! This weekend, Nuria, Aaron, and I took a little jaunt over to Seoul. The trip itself was remarkably easy - we caught a plane from Niigata Airport after work on Friday, were picked up by a tour guide at Incheon airport and found ourselves in Seoul by 10 pm that night. Nuria spotted a random restaurant where we basically pointed at something on the menu and ended up with a seven-course Korean-style meal for about $15 each. Amazing.

Anyway, Saturday was the bulk of our activity. We started with a half-day tour of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) between North and South Korea. We had a very enthusiastic English-speaking guide who shooed us from place to place on our bus tour, starting with Imjingak "Park" (which actually has amusement park rides, strangely enough), where we saw a few monuments including the Freedom Bridge. This bridge was a focal point of worldwide attention during the Korean War and was officially opened on February 16, 1952, becoming a a major link between the truce site of Panmunjom and Seoul.


Freedom Bridge
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Then we went through an ID check and ventured over Unification Bridge to check out Dorason Station, a train station that has already been built to link together North and South Korea. We got our passports stamped, grabbed a few pictures and then headed to the 3rd Tunnel. The 3rd Tunnel was discovered in October 1978. The 1.635 kilometer-long tunnel was evidently designed for a surprise attack on Seoul and actually penetrates the southern limit line set by the truce. We actually got to go down in the tunnel - but no pictures were allowed, not surprisingly. The final major stop was Dora Observatory, where we could actually see North Korea in the distance and the two villages set up in the DMZ, Daesong and Gijong. Again, good pictures were tough to get. But this gives you an idea.


Crossing Unification Bridge
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Glimpses of North Korea
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

It was a little funny to me that such a serious place has become such a huge tourist attraction. Little cartoon militia characters decorated many of the stops on the tour and I saw more Americans there than I have since I left Seattle. But what a great experience. Anyway, we got back to Seoul and started off with lunch at Outback Steak House, of all places. Aaron and I were astonished by the number of American restaurants that Seoul boasted - far more than Tokyo, from what we could tell. After eating, we saw a couple of the royal palaces, Deoksugung (the "Palace of Virtuous Longevity") and Gyeongbokgung (the "Palace of Shining Happiness"). The architecture was reminiscent of pictures I've seen of China - quite different in feel from Japan. It was fun just walking around and soaking in the scenery.


Friends, Gyeongbokgung Palace
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Entertainment Hall, Gyeongbokgung Palace
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.


Zodiac Love, Gyeongbokgung Palace
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

The last stop on the itinerary were the markets, Namdaemun and Dongdaemun, both of which are marked by huge gates that used to surround the Seoul fortress. Namdaemun was originally built in 1398 and has been renovated a number of times; it's designated as Korea's National Treasure No.1. The shopping was fun, although we didn't do too much of it (probably for the best).


Nandaemun Gate, Seoul
Originally uploaded by kristi-san.

Finally, we met up with one of Aaron's friends for some yummy Indian food and wandering around the nightlife scene of Itaewon, a district that has sprung up to cater to the American soldiers stationed at the nearby Yongsan military base. Good times.

Sunday started off with a rather ill-chosen mandatory trip to a kimchi shop (kimchi isn't particularly settling as a breakfast food). We redeemed ourselves with some Burger King at the airport though and a few too many stops at the duty-free shops (at least for me). We were back in Niigata by early evening, which was great, since I definitely needed the rest. All in all, a great trip. I only wish I had had more time to explore. There are so many things I would've liked to see. But what I saw, I totally loved.